The Secrets of Great Sekt

Few beverage styles have more lasting appeal than sparkling wine. Whether it’s a 1640 reference to drinking the stars or one of the many sekt puns seen on social media, bubbles simply seem to make things better. According to recent industry reports, real life numbers in the global sparkling wine market reflect this same fascination; a steady rise in global market revenue since 2020 saw a yield-to-date of US$45.1 billion. And while the lion’s share of that sales growth continues to be made up of the bubble bookends of Prosecco and Champagne, significant growth rates mean that German sekt now accounts for 14% of the world’s sparkling wine volume.

Over the last decade, the seachange in the reputation and quality of sekt has been impossible to ignore. It has grown from a drink into a (sparkling) state of mind: Sektlaune. Gerhild Burkhard has been at the forefront of this movement. TRINK reached out to Burkhard, the founder of the International Sparkling Wine Festival and Sparkling Wine Symposium, to ask her everything we always wanted to know about sekt (*but were afraid to ask). 

The fifth edition of this highly anticipated event, including 60 exhibitors and over 200 sparkling wines, will take place in Mainz, Germany, on 3 November 2024. A full program and ticket purchasing information can be found here. 

1. How and why did the International Sparkling Festival start? 

The idea for the International Sparkling Festival came to me in 2016 when I was serving as a jury member at a quality sekt tasting for a wine magazine. I was really struck by just how impressive the German sparkling wines were and how little attention they received. That same year, I organized my first masterclass on German sparkling wines during ProWein, inviting German winegrowers to introduce themselves and their sparkling wines. The masterclass was so popular that the idea was soon born to create a festival with sparkling wines from around the world. That’s how I ended up organizing the first International Sparkling Festival in Frankfurt in 2017.

As I couldn’t find any partners who wanted to organize this event with me, I decided to do it on my own. I’m very proud that this November will mark the fifth International Sparkling Festival. 

2. What sets sekt apart from Crémant, Champagne, Cava, Sparkling, etc? 

Champagne, Crémant, Cava, or even Franciacorta are protected designations of origin. They are all produced using traditional bottle fermentation and are subject to a fixed set of rules.

Germany’s regulations make it challenging for consumers to identify the quality of any given bottle of sparkling wine. The term “sekt” is broadly defined within Germany and can refer to sparkling wine produced through any of several different methods, ranging from large-scale tank fermentation to traditional bottle fermentation. As a consumer, careful attention must be paid to the label to distinguish between these different production techniques.

Adding to the confusion is the difference between “Hergestellt in Deutschland” (made in Germany) and “Deutscher Sekt” (German sparkling wine). The former means that while the sparkling wine was produced domestically, the grapes were likely sourced from other countries. On the other hand, “Deutscher Sekt” refers to sparkling wine made from German-grown grapes, with further distinctions between generic sparkling wine and those from specific, regulated wine regions. 

To address this confusion, associations such as “Traditionelle Sektmacher” and the VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter) have established their own independent guidelines for sparkling wine. This initiative is an important step toward ensuring that traditionally crafted, high-quality sparkling wines are both recognized and taken seriously.

“Sekt Austria” has taken this even one step further by enshrining the different quality levels of sparkling wine into law. These clearly defined levels make it easier for consumers to recognize the quality tiers. 

3. Five years into the festival, what are the more exciting trends or developments you have seen in the world of sekt? 

The trend is clearly towards longer lees aging. In addition, base wines are increasingly being fermented or matured in wood, amphorae, or ceramic vessels. The topic of sulfites is also becoming a topic, as it has been discovered that the CO2 in sparkling wine is a natural protection against oxidation and thus reduces the need for and amounts of added sulfites.

4. What do you see as the future of sekt? 

The biggest challenge for all sparkling wines is climate change. Sparkling wine needs acidity, and with rising average temperatures, winemakers who do not want to acidify or use additives in their base wine face difficult decisions. This makes events such as the International Sparkling Festival with international participation all the more important as a platform for dialogue.

5. What recent changes, if any, have you seen in the ways in which sparkling wine is understood by the consumer?

German Qualitätssekt and Winzersekt account for just 4 percent of total sparkling wine production in Germany. However, by showcasing so many excellent international examples together, we hope that events like the International Sparkling Festival will help raise consumer awareness of the category as a whole.

6. What are three sekt secrets to share with our readers?

• Try traditional method sparkling wine from different growing regions to discover the differences in variety and terroir. 
• Drink sparkling wine with food. Sekt’s refreshing acidity and delicate fruit notes make it a fantastic companion at the table. From seafood and sushi to light salads and regional German dishes, sekt adds elegance, flavor, and fun!
• Age your Sekt for a surprise. Sparkling wines that have been matured for five or even ten years will reveal surprising depth and complexity, and can open up a whole new sparkling wine dimension.

7. Which glass style do you recommend for a quality sparkling wine?

The best choice is a white wine glass or a wide-mouthed champagne glass, as they allow the aromas and flavors to best develop. Narrow, thick-walled standard flutes squeeze out all the complexity of a good sparkling wine.

8. Tasting through 210 sparkling wines would be a challenge even for the most seasoned professional. Do you have a strategy you’d recommend for first-time visitors?

Whatever your experience level, we recommend thinking in advance about which wineries and wine regions particularly interest you. It’s a good idea to focus on a few specific areas. Everyone who has registered online will receive an email the day before the Sparkling Festival with the opportunity to download the tasting book. But here are a few recommendations:

9. What made you decide to add a symposium to the IFS and what can attendees learn there?

The idea of introducing a sparkling wine symposium came from the desire to create a space where experts could explore the complexities of sparkling wine beyond simple tastings. Attendees can expect to learn about the latest trends, production techniques, and innovations in the industry, gaining a comprehensive understanding of the entire process from vineyard management to the bottle.

As wineries expand their portfolios with the production of their own sparkling wines, many still mistakenly believe that the production process is the same for base wine as it is for still wine. The symposium was created to address this knowledge gap and to offer valuable education on the distinct techniques involved in sparkling wine production.

The lack of in-depth sparkling wine symposiums in Germany makes this event a rare opportunity for even experienced sparkling winemakers to hone their skills and exchange ideas.

In addition, the symposium provides an excellent learning experience for wine merchants and sommeliers. It allows them to talk face-to-face with winemakers,  which hopefully translates into better professional advice for their customers.

10. What is the biggest surprise you’ve seen this year when it comes to sekt?

The sheer number of great sparkling wines made using the traditional method. The development from 2017 to today is simply incredible and I have to say “Bravo!” to all the winemakers who are working tirelessly to raise sekt’s profile!