Channeling literary theory in order to propose a new threshold test for fine wine.
One of the best places to start a study of German-speaking wines isn’t Germany: it’s Austria.
Why? Because Austria’s compact size makes it easy to get a handle on geography (ski in the west, grow wine in the east, as the Austrians themselves say) and varieties (come for the Grüner Veltliner, stay for the Blaufränkisch). Although Austria’s wine history runs deep, tradition and a flair for elegance rub shoulders with dynamic experimentation and impressive stylistic diversity.