Karakterre Driven
Photo credit: Karakterre/PhilandAI
The festival where character meets connection over a glass of wine
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My first true Blaufränkisch moment came in 2013, at a now-shuttered restaurant in Hamburg. Thirty-six bottles from a swath of Austria’s appellations stood open for tasting, from classics like Prieler’s Goldberg 1995 to Marienthal from Ernst Triebaumer to Ried Point from Kolwentz. Those wines impressed me, as they had in the past, even as they failed to inspire me. This time, however, other wines had joined the lineup. The Spitzerberg of Muhr-van der Niepoort (today Weingut Dorli Muhr) , for example; the 2010 Reserve Pfarrgarten from Wachter-Wiesler; and the 2002 Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben from Moric. Suddenly, I was electrified. The wine in the glass was entirely unlike anything I…...
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In Vulkanland Steiermark — “volcanic Styria” — the name says it all. Some 1,500 hectares of vineyard are, for the most part, sited on the slopes of extinguished volcanic cones that rise from a gently hilly landscape. Here Pannonian warmth from the east meets the Illyric balminess of the Adriatic. Among the best-known growers in Vulkanland are Weingut Neumeister, Winkler-Hermaden, and Ploder-Rosenberg. As throughout Styria, white varieties are most strongly represented, with Welschriesling and Weißburgunder (aka Pinot Blanc) statistically far in the lead, followed by Sauvignon Blanc, Müller-Thurgau, and Chardonnay; Zweigelt yields respectable red wines here as well. Traminer from…...
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Red Dawn: Unexpected Wines from Eastern Germany
André Gussek remembers very clearly how it all got started: Right around the time he was hired as cellar master at the historic eastern German Kloster Pforta winery in 1982, “the first Spätburgunder vines, West German clones obtained via foreign trade,” arrived at the estate in Naumburg an der Saale, roughly 60 kilometers from Leipzig and some 220 kilometers from Berlin. “In the fog of history, it was difficult to see precisely where they came from,” Gussek explains with characteristic calm. Much clearer is what they became: a catalyst for red wine to assume “an ever-larger role” in the former…...
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