Weathering the Frost: The VDP Answers Catastrophe with Solidarity
Berries without borders for some member estates in 2024?
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Riesling, Weed, and the Creative Cosmos of Skinny Pablo
On an early autumn night, in a quietly insiderish neighborhood of Queens, New York, deep beats and warping, hypnotic sound penetrate the stillness. Trapezoids of light slant onto the dark sidewalk through the broad windows of a corner restaurant, the music’s source. Silhouetted figures mingle and shift in projection. Robert Dentice, noted collector of Riesling and vinyl, stands near the door, a bottle of Keller Abts E — one of Germany’s, if not the world’s, most coveted wines — in hand, greeting new arrivals with hugs and heavy pours. Inside, there’s an invitingly louche aura of fin-de-siècle Vienna or Berlin. A slew of wine is open, almost…...
Beethoven as Bacchus, Part II
In the first movement of this piece, we looked at the origins of Ludwig van Beethoven’s interest in wine and the critical role this played in shaping the composer’s musical career. Here, we trace his path through Vienna’s living landscape, to find multiple points of intersection between past and present in his music and in some of the city’s defining wines. We then head south to the Austrian spa region of Baden, where Beethoven drank, and composed, masterpieces. As we will find, his music comes more vividly to life when appreciated within the context of the vines and landscapes in which it was written…...
A Wine Lover’s Guide to Hiking the Zellertal
The 45-kilometer Zellertalweg hiking trail runs through the heart of the Zellertal. I have created a loop trail that builds off of this longer path and can be divided into several stages. It takes in the best-known vineyards and some of the most interesting sights featured in my forthcoming wine travel guide to Germany. For me, this is the most beautiful part of the Zellertal, naturally including the Schwarzer Herrgott in both the Pfalz and Rheinhessen. As my route diverges from the Zellertalweg at several points, use this downloadable GPX file to navigate. (Works with any standard phone-based hiking app…...
Scellebelle and Zweigelt
When Westphalia and Württemberg meet on the table good tastes are bound to happen.
Swabian Vibes
Those who go on the hunt for modern Württemberg may be surprised by what they find on the journey. In this stretch of southern Germany, many things work differently. Swabians have their own take on cool. Here you’ll meet a grower from the hip-hop scene who has the region’s traditional wine mug inked as a tattoo. You’ll bump into a start-up winery launched with crowdfunding. And you’ll land at the door of one of Germany’s hippest growers, 68-year-old Helmut Dolde of Linsenhofen. DOLDE Dolde wears a walrus mustache and, on the day of my visit, a cap someone gave him that says “Wine in…...
Nahe – Welcome to Germany’s Wild West
Some say it lacks the historical cache of the Rheingau, the legendary vineyard names of the Mosel, or the easy charm of neighboring Rheinhessen. There are no convenient river boats to ferry you between wine villages, nor even particularly good train connections. No argument: the Nahe [NAHH-heh] Valley demands that you put in a bit of work to explore its more far-flung corners. The reward for those efforts is some of the most objectively fascinating landscapes, geology, climate, and wines anywhere in Germany. In fact, things can get downright adventurous in Germany’s version of the (Wine) Wild West. From the…...
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