The Elevation of Appetite

Chef plating a dish at a mountain hut during the Gourmet Skisafari Alta Badia, Dolomites in the background
One of several Michelin-starred chefs cooking on the slopes: Alessandro Dal Degan at the Gourmet Skisafari, Alta Badia. Photo Credit: Manuel Glira

At 2,010 meters above sea level, the first thing that changes is your breathing. The second is your appetite. By the time you are standing outside a mountain hut with a glass of Blauburgunder in hand, something else has shifted too. The wine tastes different up here. In December, I went to Alta Badia, a small, jagged pocket of Südtirol-Alto Adige, with skis, a notebook, and a question. Nestled among the villages of San Cassiano, La Villa, Corvara, and the Campolongo Pass, the region is defined by its verticality, snow, and fine cuisine. Every year, as the ski season starts,…

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