Journey to the Center of the Mosel: a Nordic Perspective
How a former chef’s trip from the Norwegian Fjords to Germany’s Mosel valley took wine appreciation to the next level.
How a former chef’s trip from the Norwegian Fjords to Germany’s Mosel valley took wine appreciation to the next level.
Håvard Flatland is a chef and freelance wine writer. He enjoys wine from many angles, from the conviviality of bottles and friends to scrutinizing the tannic structure of a Barolo. For three years he worked as sommelier at Park Hotel Vossevangen and he once came second in a national cake competition.
Champagne roots and Riesling blood: an interview with Pfalz's newest sektgut Christmann & Kauffmann.
Curing fish is a bit like baking cakes: unless one follows a particular recipe to the letter, the final result inevitably contains an element or three of surprise. Once in the oven, once in the brine, the window for intervention has passed – leaving time and temperature as the only remaining levers. I clearly lack the discipline to work with exact measurements (thus explaining my ban from baking birthday cakes), but I do enjoy the imprecise, historical art of preserving food with salt. Think: classic Sauerkraut, southern German Surfleisch, or – well – salmon. This particular side of freshly caught salmon…...
Slopes tilting toward shimmering water; a long, cool growing season; and shallow slate soil — to a connoisseur of German wines, these features immediately evoke the storied Mosel region. Yet they also describe a much younger wine-growing area: New York State’s Finger Lakes, or FLX. Long dismissed as a producer of tourist-friendly sweet wines made from non-vinifera grapes, the Finger Lakes now give life to vintages that express grape and terroir with nuance and sophistication. These include wines created by German-born winemakers, such as Johannes Reinhardt at Kemmeter Wines and Peter Weis at Weis Vineyards, as well as those who trained…...
The resurrected Zach. Bergweiler-Prüm Erben wines from Weingut Dr. Loosen offer a new definition of Mosel Riesling: one where the winemaker’s role is found in surrender, not forged by control.
April arrived like a lamb and went out like a lion, leaving a swath of massive frost damage in its wake for the 2024 vintage.
Kremstal grower Markus Lang is recalculating the balance of precision and harmony in Riesling and Grüner Veltliner.
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