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Trink » Issues » Volume 16, Unconventional Conversations

Volume 16, Unconventional Conversations

May 2023

Dear Readers,

Summer is about going places. Whether your travels involve a suitcase, a backpack, or a glass of wine and a journey in your own mind, TRINK Vol. 16 has you covered with eight stories of far-flung people and places.

Germany’s newest destination for vinous vacationing features in “Wish You Were Here!,” an exploration of Bayerischer Bodensee — Bavarian Lake Constance — by our senior correspondent Christoph Raffelt. The German side of the lake was long known for its simple, straightforward, fruity wines. But it’s fast becoming an insider go-to for serious expressions of Alpine-adjacent Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Müller-Thurgau, and PIWIs. If you can, follow Christoph’s tips to plan a visit. If not, read through his recommendations and hunt them down. They won’t be insider tips for long.

Seasoned journalist Rainer Schäfer presents a penetrating portrait of late visionary-provocateur Rainer Zierock. Zierock’s work in Württemberg and Alto Adige-Südtirol transcended boundaries, norms, and, many times, common sense. But as George Bernard Shaw noted: “We want a few mad people now. See where the sane ones have landed us!” Indeed.

We are also excited to share reports from Nils Kevin Puls and from Valerie on how German and Austrian growers are rethinking their relationships with alt-packaging and closures and the impact these choices have on both enjoyment and the environment. Swiss-based journalist Bart de Vries brings us a report from the frontlines of PIWI R&D in Switzerland’s Agroscope and private wineries.

Finally, we are proud to feature not one but two TRINK debuts in this volume. The intrepid Samantha Cole-Johnson leads us on a thought-provoking journey into a few of the highly individual and complex philosophies behind Germany’s Prädikat system. It’s about so much more than just numbers. Swedish wine writer Sara Emilia Nässén, who long called Italy home, deepens our understanding of a few of the change agents behind recent regenerative developments in Alto Adige-Südtirol.

Our cover art is an original painting from international artist Agata Zaborowski. If you enjoy this piece, the rest of her designs can be viewed at her virtual gallery Agata Art Gallery.

Happy reading!

Paula Redes Sidore, Bad Honnef
Valerie Kathawala, New York City

Unlocking Rieslingsekt’s Potential
Germany

Unlocking Rieslingsekt’s Potential

ByNicole Wolbers July 12, 2023November 9, 2023

Riesling is admired for its complexity, longevity, and ability to reflect its terroir. The same is slowly becoming true in the sparkling wine sector, where…...

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Rooted and Regenerative
Alto Adige · Italy

Rooted and Regenerative

BySara Emilia Nässén May 31, 2023November 5, 2023

It starts with the soil. “I am passionate about the microbial world under our feet, and the key role it plays in the vine’s adaptation…...

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Swiss R and D Chases Winning PIWIs
Switzerland

Swiss R and D Chases Winning PIWIs

ByBart De Vries May 31, 2023November 9, 2023

With a third generation of fungus-resistant hybrid wine grapes in development, are we poised for a breakthrough in the spread of so-called PIWIs? Will the…...

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Screw This! It’s Time for Screwcaps on Fine Wine
Austria · Germany

Screw This! It’s Time for Screwcaps on Fine Wine

ByNils Kevin Puls May 31, 2023November 9, 2023

It’s an anniversary that still has some bottled up with anger. Johannes Hirsch, the acclaimed biodynamic Kamptal winemaker, is celebrating 20 years of screwcaps. He rejoices…...

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Rainer Zierock: Visionary Provocateur
Germany · Italy

Rainer Zierock: Visionary Provocateur

ByRainer Schäfer May 31, 2023November 9, 2023

If Emilio Zierock finds it hard to talk about his controversial father, you can’t tell it by listening to him. He speaks with remarkable openness…...

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Cans with a Plan
Austria · Germany

Cans with a Plan

ByValerie Kathawala May 31, 2023November 9, 2023

Djuce first entered my periphery late last year at the New York City iteration of Karakterre’s natural wine fair. Amid a cheerful invasion of producers from…...

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Wish You Were Here! Love, Bodensee
Germany · Baden

Wish You Were Here! Love, Bodensee

ByChristoph Raffelt May 31, 2023November 2, 2023

Ask a German about their favorite domestic vacation spots and Bodensee — aka Lake Constance — routinely sits near the top of the list. The country’s largest…...

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Still A Place For Prädikat?
Germany

Still A Place For Prädikat?

BySamantha Cole-Johnson May 31, 2023November 5, 2023

The one piece of German wine law I thought I fully understood was the Prädikat system. First, I memorized the Prädikat levels. Later, I memorized the minimum must weights…....

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Alpine Wines Get New Scouts
Austria · Germany · Italy · Switzerland

Alpine Wines Get New Scouts

ByValerie Kathawala April 14, 2023November 9, 2023

Archetype, a Portland, Oregon-based import start-up, is focused on Alpine wines. They are refining consumer's understanding of the category and building community near and far.

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