The New Teachings of Old Field Blends
The year is 1806. The date June 17th. Privy Councilor Goethe sits in Frankfurt — high and dry. He reaches for his quill and writes a…
December 2021
Dear Readers,
We present TRINK Vol. 09, our last issue of MMXXI.
It feels fitting to draw this strange year to a close with a collection of pieces that confront boundaries, shift perspectives, and blow open stereotypes.
Chris Losh’s witty essay forces him, and us, to challenge our notions of what it is we want from a wine deliberately selected for sharing. Emily Campeau restores the humble Tafelspitz to a place of pride and celebration. Sebastian Bordthäuser examines rarefied pairings of Austrian swine and wine. Valerie reports from inside a creative cosmos of weed, beats, and Riesling. Paula steers a course for German wines through a transforming Finnish market, with Mosel as the North star. Nils Kevin Puls finds affecting drama in the work of a few growers dedicated to keeping traditional field blends alive in uncommon places.
In short: plenty to indulge in. Luckily, for many of us, the holidays are here. May they bring health, restoration, and time for celebrating the most essential pleasures — words and wine chief among them!
On that note, we are delighted to end the year with a new service for our U.S. readers. We have partnered with Flatiron Wines, a premier retailer of German-speaking wines, to offer links that make it quick and easy for you to purchase many of the selections highlighted in our pages. Think of it as an extension of service journalism, a step saved between wondering and savoring. No fear, though, now — as ever — the integrity of the story and our total editorial independence come first.
As always, we welcome your feedback and suggestions at [email protected].
Happy Reading and Happy New Year!
Paula Redes Sidore, Bad Honnef
Valerie Kathawala, New York City
The year is 1806. The date June 17th. Privy Councilor Goethe sits in Frankfurt — high and dry. He reaches for his quill and writes a…
12/17/2021 Swine Wines in the Steiermark By Sebastian Bordthäuser In mid-October, Koch.Campus invited guests to a first-class pig-out in Trautmannsdorf, in Steiermark. “Going Whole…
Hoss Hauksson is transforming his Pinot Noir vineyards in the Swiss Aargau into havens of ecological diversity.
Trained mason Tom Litwan began crafting elegant yet edgy, biodynamic, low-intervention Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in Switzerland’s Aargau back in 2006. Today his wines play in…
It is Friday night and I’m terrified. In 24 hours, a top sommelier is coming to our house for dinner. A sommelier who puts together…
On an early autumn night, in a quietly insiderish neighborhood of Queens, New York, deep beats and warping, hypnotic sound penetrate the stillness. Trapezoids of light slant…
What do one of the Mosel’s oldest winemaking estates and a country with a fledgling wine-drinking culture have in common? The answer, as with most…
12/17/2021 Wines with a View at Winkler-Hermaden By Jill Barth The story of Weingut Winkler-Hermaden and its home in a striking 11th-century castle starts…
12/17/2021 Eat & TRINK | Go Austrian for Your Holiday Feast By Emily Campeau Tomato season rolled right into the root vegetable months, and…
Enjoy unlimited access to TRINK! | Subscribe Today