Ziereisen Crosses a New Line
Silas Weiss and Hanspeter Ziereisen, Photo Credit: Bart de Vries
A Swiss winery benefits from the touch of the master of Markgräflerland.
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Maps illustrating German viticulture in the Middle Ages show a dense, far-reaching expanse. Vines and wine were integral to daily life, sacred and secular. Vineyards formed a distinctive cultural landscape and wine a vital cultural asset — a long, living link to the past. Today, that link is being tested. The German wine industry is contending with what some experts have called its greatest crisis since World War II. Fueling the crisis are anti-alcohol messaging, demographic shifts, rocketing costs, and the increasingly erratic tolls of the climate crisis. Worse, there’s no clear sense of where rock bottom lies. But German…...
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“When I started drinking wine, wine was French,” my father told me recently over dinner at Scheepskameel, a Dutch restaurant known for its excellent wine menu. He never spends more than 10 euro on a bottle, and rarely drinks white, but that evening he unexpectedly admitted, he preferred our glass of German Riesling to our bottle of red Bordeaux. A few days later, I hosted a Riesling tasting for some serious wine friends. They have accounts with posh traders and their own cellars, which are typically stocked with Burgundies and Bordeaux. They were impressed. But, I wondered, would they buy…...
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It is a landscape rife with charms and challenges: From their perch atop the Oberrotweiler Eichberg, on a long-dormant volcano that rises to 310 meters, Johannes Landerer and Jakob Moise can enjoy some of the finest views over the Kaiserstuhl and sprawling Rhine Basin in Baden. The early morning sun is quickly rising, but the Kaiserstuhl, normally a place of striking warmth, has seen an unusual amount of precipitation in the summer of 2024, leaving it greener than at any time in recent memory. But if this pair of Kaiserstuhl winegrowers agree on anything, it’s that this situation is likely…...
The Pfalz’s Unlikely Catch: A Fish Soup Story
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What is the Role of “Heimat” in Terroir?
For over a year, we’ve been living with a pandemic that has shut down more than just our senses of taste and smell. It has forced us to rely on at-home experiences like a glass of wine to satisfy our longing for travel. But what do the places of our terroir dreams taste like? What exactly constitutes the origins of a wine? To use a loaded German word, how much Heimat (loosely, homeland) is in terroir? Flash back to harvest 2012. Max von Kunow of Weingut von Hövel in Germany’s Saar visits the Jurtschitsch family in Austria’s Kamptal for a vacation before his own harvest. Together…...
- Germany · Baden · Pfalz · Rheinhessen · Tasting Article
On the Way to German Chardonnay 2.0
German Chardonnay may be the most thrilling wine for our moment.
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