Better Spät than Never in the Ahr
How catastrophe proved a catalyst for change, and helped Germany’s Pinot paradise find a new way to farm.
How catastrophe proved a catalyst for change, and helped Germany’s Pinot paradise find a new way to farm.
Simon J. Woolf has been writing about natural and orange wine since 2011. He is the award-winning founder of "The Morning Claret" and author of the seminal Amber Revolution (2018) and Foot Trodden (2021), both named New York Times wine books of the year. Simon contributes to Decanter, where he serves as a Regional Chair, as well as World of Fine Wine and Noble Rot. Recently, he launched a consultancy guiding authors in self-publishing. Based in Amsterdam, he is a keen cook and lover of music ranging from Stockhausen to ClownC0re.
It was biodynamic wine that helped me to find my footing in Europe. Yet, as a Black American woman living in Europe, Rudolf Steiner's interests and views present a complicated and troubling legacy.
Just in time for the tropical temperatures of summer 2026, I made myself Som Tam Thai (ส้มตำ), a Thai papaya salad. At 30°C (86°F) or above, few of us have much of an appetite. But you have to eat something eventually. With no green papaya on hand, kohlrabi cut a surprisingly good figure. And the bold, intensely seasoned dressing did the rest. So, what to drink with it? They recommend you should consume an extra two liters of fluid at these temperatures, and who am I to argue? Off to the wine cellar to find a good bottle. Oddly, the…...
In the first movement of this piece, we looked at the origins of Ludwig van Beethoven’s interest in wine and the critical role this played in shaping the composer’s musical career. Here, we trace his path through Vienna’s living landscape, to find multiple points of intersection between past and present in his music and in some of the city’s defining wines. We then head south to the Austrian spa region of Baden, where Beethoven drank, and composed, masterpieces. As we will find, his music comes more vividly to life when appreciated within the context of the vines and landscapes in which it was written…...
The dark wit of Berlin. Dangerously low water levels in the Rhine River. Black bread. Germany does trocken like few others. And then there’s the wine. Despite its reputation as the land of Blue Nun, more than 60 percent of the wines made in Germany are dry. And within that 60 percent, there are discernible levels of dry, drier, and driest. So dry, in fact, that there’s a strangely specific word for it. (Of course there’s a word. It’s Germany. There’s always a word.) Furztrocken. Fart Dry. Literally. As difficult to grasp as I find a term like feinherb, it’s Kinderspiel when compared to furztrocken. Then again, mindset…...
The one piece of German wine law I thought I fully understood was the Prädikat system. First, I memorized the Prädikat levels. Later, I memorized the minimum must weights. I pushed aside my frustration that the sweetness of a wine did not correspond with Prädikat level — accepting that residual sugar wasn’t part of the system. Before visiting Germany, I never expected that the lack of consistency in sweetness for Prädikat wines would be an ongoing point of tension in the very country that came up with the system. Or, that by prioritizing origin over Oechsle degrees, Germany’s renowned wine organization Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) would in essence dismiss the…...
The Mosel, Germany’s oldest winegrowing region, knows how to beguile. The Rheingau swathes itself in the trappings of nobility, Baden boasts of its sunshine, the Mittelrhein beckons with Romanticism. The Mosel, however, reaches straight for myth. There are many recaps of the growing region readily available, so let’s focus on something else instead: what makes the Mosel unique — now, then, and, likely, in the future. Not for nothing is the biggest annual wine fair along the Mosel River entitled “Mythos Mosel.” The name, and the event itself, attest to the enduring power the Mosel holds in the imagination of the wine-drinking…...
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