Eat + Trink
Delicious Dichotomy in Alto Adige
by Ursula Heinzelmann
A stylish modern building: concrete, metal, and local wood. A large glass front opens onto the mountains across a narrow Alpine valley, 1300 meters above sea level. The spacious tasting room and long table feel simultaneously airborne and grounded. This dichotomy—true for so many things in Alto Adige—is further epitomized by the modern structure of the Eggemoa dairy in Mühlwald, where Michael Steiner handcrafts a range of delicious soft cheeses from the raw milk of his family’s Braunvieh cows.
The dark-haired and serious young man took over cheese-making from his mother, following studies at the region’s agricultural college and a two-month-internship with Swiss cheese legend Willi Schmid...
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