Franken Ale and Friesian Eel
Photo credit Marko Seifert, Düsseldorf | www.markoseifert.com
Northern Germany’s answer to lobster, and a true hybrid Riesling surprise.
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It’s a Kind of Magic
My socials fill up with harvest photos at this time of year. It’s joyful and a bit primal. Nature controls the parameters of how and when, no matter how hard we try to predict and plan. The act of picking grapes initiates an even more fundamental process. Fermentation is to wine what oxygen is to humans. It’s both essential and deadly at the same time. There is no wine without it, yet fermentation’s transformative effects can destroy as readily as they create. It’s a kind of magic. Smoke, Stinks and Magic It’s magic because you start with fresh fruit, then…...
Germany’s Raw Art: the Mettigel
Raw pork is the umlaut answer to the American molded potato salad or ham-and-bananas hollandaise.
What to Drink When a Somm Comes to Dinner
It is Friday night and I’m terrified. In 24 hours, a top sommelier is coming to our house for dinner. A sommelier who puts together the wine lists for a global restaurant group; a sommelier who has spent over 30 years training more somms than I’ve seen typos on a wine list; a sommelier who matches food and wine the way the rest of us match our Sunday outfits. And tomorrow, I’m responsible for the wine. My wife draws up a shopping list for the meal, blissfully unconcerned. “We’re not a restaurant,” she says, “why should she expect Michelin-starred cooking?”…...
It Takes Two: Eva Fricke and Jenna Fields
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The Kitzingen Connection
Kitzingen has never been particularly famed as a mecca for winemaking in Franken. So when I received an invitation to visit this town, 20 km southeast of Würzburg, for a wine presentation by the New Kitz & Friends, I had little reason to suspect it would mutate into a natural wine hub. At this point, New Kitz & Friends are hardly unknowns – certainly not in this magazine. Colleague Rainer Schäfer recently profiled this group of unconventional locals and newcomers, all moving in a cosmic orbit around the pioneering natural wine estate 2Naturkinder. For this event, the New Kitz called…...
Eat + TRINK | The Yin-Yang of Lagrein and Jing Jiang Rou Si
TRINK Magazine | It was a wine, not a memory, that motivated Joyce Lin to make Jing Jian Rou Si: the Kellerei Kaltern 2018 Lagrein Riserva ‘Largeith.’ Recipe and pairing included.
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