The Last of Their Kind: Germany’s Treasury of Old Vine Riesling
Riesling fruit on the Rosenberg | Photo credit Christoph Raffelt
The power, pride and potential of old vines. And it turns out, the Mosel really could be where it all started..
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On an early autumn night, in a quietly insiderish neighborhood of Queens, New York, deep beats and warping, hypnotic sound penetrate the stillness. Trapezoids of light slant onto the dark sidewalk through the broad windows of a corner restaurant, the music’s source. Silhouetted figures mingle and shift in projection. Robert Dentice, noted collector of Riesling and vinyl, stands near the door, a bottle of Keller Abts E — one of Germany’s, if not the world’s, most coveted wines — in hand, greeting new arrivals with hugs and heavy pours. Inside, there’s an invitingly louche aura of fin-de-siècle Vienna or Berlin. A slew of wine is open, almost…...
Kabinett Trocken: Oxymoron or Opportunity?
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What You’re Still Getting Wrong About Trollinger
Trollinger was long decried as a poor excuse of a wine. Increasingly, growers and drinkers beg to differ.
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