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Risk and Reward in Austria's Warming Wachau

Photo Credit Simon J. Woolf

Risk and Reward in Austria's Warming Wachau

By Simon J. Woolf


Great wine nations typically have their signature regions, the acknowledged leaders with global recognition or time-honored standing. In France, it’s a toss-up between Bordeaux and Burgundy, whereas in Italy, Chianti and Barolo would probably fight it out. Austria, however, has no such ambivalence: The Wachau has been top dog for three decades running. Its status once allowed it to set rules rather than obey them; to create trends, not follow them. But in an age more and more defined by climate emergency, does this quietly conservative region now risk complacency — or can its winemakers react and adapt to maintain the Wachau’s pole position?


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