Risk and Reward in Austria's Warming Wachau
By Simon J. Woolf
Great wine nations typically have their signature regions, the acknowledged leaders with global recognition or time-honored standing. In France, it’s a toss-up between Bordeaux and Burgundy, whereas in Italy, Chianti and Barolo would probably fight it out. Austria, however, has no such ambivalence: The Wachau has been top dog for three decades running. Its status once allowed it to set rules rather than obey them; to create trends, not follow them. But in an age more and more defined by climate emergency, does this quietly conservative region now risk complacency — or can its winemakers react and adapt to maintain the Wachau’s pole position?
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