Müller-Thurgau: A shoulder for Germany to cry on
By Emily Campeau
“Nothing very good has ever been made of Müller-Thurgau,” said the German wine webinar moderator, armed with the same parade of stale clichés and tired narratives. Perhaps it was the irritating circumstances of quarantine coupled with my then standard cranky mood or maybe it was simply the ridiculousness of the statement. But that outright lie was one I could no longer let stand.
Would it fall to me to set the record straight?
I trust my own palate. It has notified me time and again that Müller-Thurgau can make exceptional wines. Like that bottle of Enderle & Moll “Muschelkalk” 2016, tasting of saffron and fire-roasted carrots. Or the one from Bianka & Daniel Schmitt, with its velvety texture and herbal nose, all crushable and full of energy. Or the soft-spoken, comforting taste of Philip Lardot’s “Kontakt,” still lingering in my mind from a bottle consumed a few days ago. Or Andi Weigand’s “MTH,” from old vines and an old basket press, whistle clean and surprisingly serious. Or Jan Matthias Klein’s “Sanderstruck,” with its edgy, subversive complexity.
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