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Trink » Issues » Volume 15, Fresh Perspectives

Volume 15, Fresh Perspectives

February 2023

Original work in watercolor and india ink in shades of blue, yellow and chestnut

Dear Readers,

German-speaking wines are at an inflection point. The “trend” toward all forms of what we might call reasoned viticulture — integrated pest management, organic, biodynamic, and regenerative practices — is moving closer to a norm. As you’ll read in this volume, fresh ideas are sifting into the mindsets of Winzer:innen everywhere. Vineyards will increasingly look as they did a century and more ago. And yet they will look more like
the future, too.

As they push up against the boundaries of extractive systems, they are turning their wineries into motors and models of change. Whether it’s socially minded co-ops and crowd-supported ventures that sustain communities, initiatives that encourage the flourishing of biodiversity, or recultivation of Kulturlandschaften and the products they yield, these are just a few of the causes for hope rooted in our coverage.

In this issue, we hope to breathe fresh life, perspective, and inspiration into the conversation about these developments. We hazard forecasts for the year ahead in our coverage area. We dive into five regions that are transforming themselves in ways big and small: Carnuntum, the southern Mosel (even verging a bit into Luxembourg), Saale-Unstrut, Rheinhessen, and Alto Adige-Südtirol as a whole. We delve into the unexpected raptures of aged Grüner Veltliner and state the case for a rare Swiss variety. In Eat + TRINK we share a reminder of the sweetness and comfort of tradition.

We’d like to take this opportunity to express our heartfelt thanks to one of the entities that has believed in TRINK from the very beginning. P.J. Valckenberg, historic exporter of German wines, shares our commitment to letting the world in on what makes those wines so singular and dynamic, and how those wines are experienced in Germany today. P.J. Valckenberg underwrote the profiles in our LEARN section, allowing us to share our own fresh take on seven iconic wine regions with you. We will always be grateful for the shared values that brought us together.

A note on the cover art for this volume: “Places” (2022) is an original work in watercolor and india ink by artist and designer Patricia Masibay. Masibay was born in Manila and grew up in Chicago. She currently lives and works in southwest Germany. We are proud to support and feature emerging and established artists in our pages as part of our commitment to independent journalism. We hope you find fresh perspectives here, too.

Happy reading!

Paula Redes Sidore, Bad Honnef
Valerie Kathawala, New York City

Small house at the top of the Vitzenburger Schlossberg vineyard in Saale-Unstrut
Germany · Saale-Unstrut

Wine at the 51st Parallel in Saale-Unstrut

ByChristoph Raffelt February 15, 2023November 5, 2023

Trink Magazine | That viticulture is still possible in Germany’s Saale-Unstrut in an age of climate crisis is due to the microclimate of the valleys and the perseverance of its growers.

Read more or sign in Wine at the 51st Parallel in Saale-UnstrutContinue

Grüner Veltliner for Later
Austria

Grüner Veltliner for Later

ByJordan Michelman February 15, 2023November 4, 2024

The Wine Friend is a figure of great importance in the life of a wine drinker. They can take the form a kind benefactor, perhaps…

Read more or sign in Grüner Veltliner for LaterContinue

Discovering Austria’s Thermenregion
Austria · Thermenregion

Discovering Austria’s Thermenregion

ByNils Kevin Puls February 15, 2023November 9, 2023

To mark a recent milestone anniversary, Austria’s association of traditional wine estates (ÖTW) invited into its fold a region that is in many regards the…

Read more or sign in Discovering Austria’s ThermenregionContinue

Sloped vineyards of Alto Adige with church in background
Alto Adige · Learn

Understanding Alto Adige-Südtirol

ByIan D’Agata February 15, 2023November 9, 2023

Trink Magazine | This primer offers insight into the surprising contrasts and dynamics at play in the wines of Alto Adige, this small, mountainous, and little known corner of northeast Italy.

Read more or sign in Understanding Alto Adige-SüdtirolContinue

The Southern Mosel Would Like a Word
Germany · Mosel

The Southern Mosel Would Like a Word

ByRainer Schäfer February 15, 2023November 9, 2023

Jonas Dostert is relaxing in the inner courtyard of his family’s Southern Mosel estate in Nittel. The sun is shining, the grapes were harvested in late…

Read more or sign in The Southern Mosel Would Like a WordContinue

Bronze statue tipping his hat above a German Riesling vineyard on Rheinhessen's Roter Hang
Germany · Learn · Rheinhessen

Rheinhessen – welcome to your intervention

BySteven Sidore February 15, 2023February 11, 2024

A jack of all trades is inherently a master of none. While finding the right focus can help, that is often easier said than done….

Read more or sign in Rheinhessen – welcome to your interventionContinue

crystal ball sits atop a wine glass with white wine overlooking the Mosel River
Germany · Alto Adige · Austria · Switzerland · Trends

Future Casting

ByValerie Kathawala February 15, 2023February 17, 2024

Trink Magazine | Valerie Kathawala hazards forecasts for the future of wines from Alto Adige-Südtirol, Austria, Germany, and German-speaking Switzerland.

Read more or sign in Future CastingContinue

Black and white drawing of a small boy holding a red balloon on an empty Paris street
Austria · Carnuntum · Portrait

Fresh, Frank and Fiercely Carnuntum

ByPaula Redes Sidore February 15, 2023November 11, 2023

Trink Magazine | Austria’s winegrowing region of Carnuntum has seemingly been there from the beginning with an identity forever in flux. Paula Redes Sidore explores how growers are redefining what regionality means, together.

Read more or sign in Fresh, Frank and Fiercely CarnuntumContinue

Bottle of red wine from Valle Isarco next to a white plate of Eight Treasure Rice on a white tablecloth bordered by a flower bouquet
Alto Adige · Eat+TRINK

Eat + TRINK | A Sweet Delicacy Calls for Schiava

ByJoyce Lin January 22, 2023November 10, 2023

Lunar New Year (aka Spring Festival, or Guo Nian in Mandarin) is arguably the most important holiday for people of Chinese heritage — especially in Taiwan, where…

Read more or sign in Eat + TRINK | A Sweet Delicacy Calls for SchiavaContinue

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