Eat + TRINK | Go Austrian with Tafelspitz This Holiday
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Eat + TRINK | Go Austrian with Tafelspitz This Holiday

ByEmily Campeau

12/17/2021 Eat & TRINK | Go Austrian for Your Holiday Feast By Emily Campeau ​ Tomato season rolled right into the root vegetable months, and here we are, planning end-of-the-year festivities. Whether you’re looking to ditch the old classics for a fresh recipe to impress your guests or make dinner for two with plenty left over for a next-day sandwich, I suggest we look to Austria for inspiration.  Tafelspitz is a dish closely associated with Viennese cuisine and is generally considered to be Austria’s national dish. The first time I crossed paths with it was at one of those distinguished…...

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Eat + TRINK | Wurstsalat as Mood Board
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Eat + TRINK | Wurstsalat as Mood Board

ByEmily Campeau

I felt lonely on the Internet the day I started researching the origins of Wurstsalat.  I looked in far-flung corners of the web for sausage scholars who might have dedicated time to writing about the rules and methods of this intriguing dish. When I hit a wall, I did what any well-trained millennial would do and typed #wurstsalat into Instagram’s search bar.  The things I saw there were either appetite-inducing or frightening, sometimes both at once. Lying in the cascade of pictures amidst German cowboys, balsamic glaze swirls, wedding celebrations, crinkle-cut fries, and loads of curly parsley was a possible answer: Wurstsalat is…...

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Eat + TRINK | Where Silvaner Meets the Sea
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Eat + TRINK | Where Silvaner Meets the Sea

ByJérôme Hainz

Confession time: Which wine and food pairings make your eyes roll faster than a teenager’s? Champagne and strawberries? Pizza and Lambrusco? Muscadet and oysters?  In southern Germany, Silvaner and white asparagus are regional marketing 101. Silvaner has been praised and prized as a pairing for the spring stalk to such an extent that grocers will double their inventories of cheap Silvaner and stack it by the case in the vegetable section. And while the fastest way to get a screenful of Internet ill-will slung in your direction is to suggest the pairing to a German wine group, it is true…...

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EAT & TRINK | Pfalz Riesling and Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup
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EAT & TRINK | Pfalz Riesling and Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup

ByJoyce Lin

If you ask a person from Taiwan to choose the 10 dishes that best represent his or her cuisine, Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup is inevitably on the list. More than a beloved national dish, the soup has become something of an obsession — like pizza to New Yorkers.  Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup was created by soldiers who retreated with the Nationalist government from mainland China to Taiwan in the 1950s. For political reasons, they were banned from returning to their hometowns. Missing both family and familiar cuisine, the soldiers used local ingredients to create a dish that evoked the flavors…...

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Eat & TRINK | Grüner Silvaner and Gravlax
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Eat & TRINK | Grüner Silvaner and Gravlax

ByJérôme Hainz

Curing fish is a bit like baking cakes: unless one follows a particular recipe to the letter, the final result inevitably contains an element or three of surprise. Once in the oven, once in the brine, the window for intervention has passed – leaving time and temperature as the only remaining levers. I clearly lack the discipline to work with exact measurements (thus explaining my ban from baking birthday cakes), but I do enjoy the imprecise, historical art of preserving food with salt. Think: classic Sauerkraut, southern German Surfleisch, or – well – salmon. This particular side of freshly caught salmon…...

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Eat & TRINK | Alpkäse and Kamptal Riesling
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Eat & TRINK | Alpkäse and Kamptal Riesling

ByUrsula Heinzelmann

12/14/2020 Eat & TRINK | Alpkäse and Kamptal Riesling By Ursula Heinzelmann ​ The entirely spontaneous, yet infinitely harmonious tinkling of cow bells. The crunching of my boots along a narrow mountain path. The joyous gurgling of a stream winding its way down among rocks, moss, and roots. This is one of my favorite cheese soundtracks. The accompanying “smelltrack” is of warm stables in the haze of first light and earthy, pungent bodies, redolent of the basic facts of life. Wood smoke rising from under a round copper vat. And of course the reassuring, lactic aroma of warm milk and whey,…...

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