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Trink » Issues » Volume 11, Back in Time

Volume 11, Back in Time

May 2022

Historic vineyard slopes in Franken, Germany

Dear readers,

Without quite intending it, we find ourselves with a particularly food-focused collection in this volume. And we’re delighted. Because if there is one thing that’s too long been missing from the conversation about German-speaking wines, it’s the foods that go with them.

New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov made this point when we spoke with him for TRINK Talks. We’re not sure raw-pork hedgehogs were what he had in mind, but that’s what Paula dishes up in her witty study of a German party classic. A counterintuitive wine and cheese musing from German culinary historian Ursula Heinzelmann might be more like it. And most definitely on target is Bart de Vries’ profile of an Amsterdam restaurant that spotlights German wines as the ideal foil for contemporary European cuisine. It all goes to Heinzelmann’s point that “Germans do not live exclusively on Oktoberfest fare.”

Beyond these stories, we offer a critical look at a German wine tradition we consider ripe for rethinking. There’s a serious dive into the deepening soul of Blaufränkisch. A microstudy of Austria’s Traisental. A vertical view into Alto-Adige’s Vorberg. And an introduction to one of the hottest topics in German wine in Germany: historic grape varieties.

There’s also a brand-new addition to our LEARN section — arguing that Franken is Germany’s most underrated region — brought to you with the generous support of P.J. Valckenberg, amplifiers of German wines.

But before you dig in, we want to thank the ever-growing number of Patreons and partners who are making our conversation-changing content possible! We’re tremendously grateful and immensely proud.

Finally, the next few weeks are packed with exciting umlaut wine events. We’d love to connect with you in Eltville am Rhein, Düsseldorf, Stuttgart, Styria, Vienna — or anywhere in between. Drop us a line at [email protected] if you’ll be there to
let us know!

Eure

Valerie Kathawala, New York City
Paula Redes Sidore, Bad Honnef

Austria’s Traisental 
Austria · Traisental

Austria’s Traisental 

ByNils Kevin Puls May 11, 2022February 17, 2024

​Wine regions are threaded along the Danube, one after another, like a string of Chanel pearls. Wagram, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wachau. And Traisental — the only…...

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Metal statue looking onto Germany's Franken vineyards surrounded by forest.
Germany · Franken · Learn

Franken — Germany’s Most Underrated Region

ByValerie Kathawala May 11, 2022February 11, 2024

We’ll come right out and say it: Franken (Franconia) is Germany’s most underrated region. If you still think of it as the source of wan…...

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Evolving the German Wine Queen Tradition
Germany

Evolving the German Wine Queen Tradition

ByCathy Huyghe May 11, 2022May 2, 2024

The story starts with a pedicure and a camping van. Each year when the German wine queen visits New York City, Paul Grieco treats her to a…...

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Bottle of Franken Silvaner and cut handkäse for Eat+Trink
Germany · Eat+TRINK

Ode to Humble Handkäse

ByUrsula Heinzelmann May 11, 2022February 17, 2024

Can you hear the music? Forget onions and vinegar: this Franken co-ferment hits harmonies as only Handkäse can do.

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Pergola trained weißburgunder vines in the Vorberg vineyard
Alto Adige · Tasting Article

4 Faces of Alto Adige’s Iconic Vorberg

ByPaula Redes Sidore May 11, 2022February 21, 2024

Trink Magazine | A highflying adventure in 4 vintages of Cantina Terlano's reknowned Vorberg wine. By Paula Redes Sidore

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Photograph of Mettigel, raw art, a German party classic with onion spikes on a bed of lettuce.
Germany · Eat+TRINK

Germany’s Raw Art: the Mettigel

ByPaula Redes Sidore May 11, 2022February 21, 2024

Raw pork is the umlaut answer to the American molded potato salad or ham-and-bananas hollandaise.

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German Wines Shine at Restaurant Scheepskameel
Germany · News · Portrait

German Wines Shine at Restaurant Scheepskameel

ByBart De Vries May 11, 2022November 11, 2023

“When I started drinking wine, wine was French,” my father told me recently over dinner at Scheepskameel, a Dutch restaurant known for its excellent wine…...

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Returning Historic Varieties to Germany’s Vineyards
Mosel · Franken · Rheinhessen · Tasting Article

Returning Historic Varieties to Germany’s Vineyards

ByMatthias Neske May 11, 2022October 17, 2023

This is a story for the wine romantics among us who dream of bygone varieties, who hunker down to listen to the old stone terraces…...

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Bucket of Blaufränkisch grapes under a pair of pruning shears
Germany · Austria · Burgenland · Württemberg

Blaufränkisch Bares Its Soul

ByChristoph Raffelt May 11, 2022February 21, 2024

My first true Blaufränkisch moment came in 2013, at a now-shuttered restaurant in Hamburg. Thirty-six bottles from a swath of Austria’s appellations stood open for…...

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Close up of Moselwein book with green cover on a wooden table
Germany · Book Review · Mosel

Book Review: “Mosel Wine”

ByValerie Kathawala March 30, 2022November 10, 2023

We like to think of Mosel wine as eternally glorious. The river valley’s nearly 2,000-year vinous history, its relics of Roman civilization and tributes to…...

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