Austria’s Traisental
Wine regions are threaded along the Danube, one after another, like a string of Chanel pearls. Wagram, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wachau. And Traisental — the only…
May 2022
Dear readers,
Without quite intending it, we find ourselves with a particularly food-focused collection in this volume. And we’re delighted. Because if there is one thing that’s too long been missing from the conversation about German-speaking wines, it’s the foods that go with them.
New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov made this point when we spoke with him for TRINK Talks. We’re not sure raw-pork hedgehogs were what he had in mind, but that’s what Paula dishes up in her witty study of a German party classic. A counterintuitive wine and cheese musing from German culinary historian Ursula Heinzelmann might be more like it. And most definitely on target is Bart de Vries’ profile of an Amsterdam restaurant that spotlights German wines as the ideal foil for contemporary European cuisine. It all goes to Heinzelmann’s point that “Germans do not live exclusively on Oktoberfest fare.”
Beyond these stories, we offer a critical look at a German wine tradition we consider ripe for rethinking. There’s a serious dive into the deepening soul of Blaufränkisch. A microstudy of Austria’s Traisental. A vertical view into Alto-Adige’s Vorberg. And an introduction to one of the hottest topics in German wine in Germany: historic grape varieties.
There’s also a brand-new addition to our LEARN section — arguing that Franken is Germany’s most underrated region — brought to you with the generous support of P.J. Valckenberg, amplifiers of German wines.
But before you dig in, we want to thank the ever-growing number of Patreons and partners who are making our conversation-changing content possible! We’re tremendously grateful and immensely proud.
Finally, the next few weeks are packed with exciting umlaut wine events. We’d love to connect with you in Eltville am Rhein, Düsseldorf, Stuttgart, Styria, Vienna — or anywhere in between. Drop us a line at [email protected] if you’ll be there to
let us know!
Eure
Valerie Kathawala, New York City
Paula Redes Sidore, Bad Honnef
Wine regions are threaded along the Danube, one after another, like a string of Chanel pearls. Wagram, Kamptal, Kremstal, Wachau. And Traisental — the only…
We’ll come right out and say it: Franken (Franconia) is Germany’s most underrated region. If you still think of it as the source of wan…
The story starts with a pedicure and a camping van. Each year when the German wine queen visits New York City, Paul Grieco treats her to a…
Can you hear the music? Forget onions and vinegar: this Franken co-ferment hits harmonies as only Handkäse can do.
Trink Magazine | A highflying adventure in 4 vintages of Cantina Terlano’s reknowned Vorberg wine. By Paula Redes Sidore
Raw pork is the umlaut answer to the American molded potato salad or ham-and-bananas hollandaise.
“When I started drinking wine, wine was French,” my father told me recently over dinner at Scheepskameel, a Dutch restaurant known for its excellent wine…
This is a story for the wine romantics among us who dream of bygone varieties, who hunker down to listen to the old stone terraces…
My first true Blaufränkisch moment came in 2013, at a now-shuttered restaurant in Hamburg. Thirty-six bottles from a swath of Austria’s appellations stood open for…
We like to think of Mosel wine as eternally glorious. The river valley’s nearly 2,000-year vinous history, its relics of Roman civilization and tributes to…
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