Pfalz comes into its own

Summer view of inner courtyard with plants and stone buildings in Germany's Pfalz winegrowing region

The Pfalz is Germany’s second-largest wine region (by volume) — and perhaps its biggest surprise. The south-of-the-Alps feel of abundance and harmony stems from geographic confluence, where the sheltering Haardt mountains meet Rhine river plain. With Rheinhessen to its north and Alsace due south, it’s a wholly unexpected idyll of fig, lemon, and almond trees, pastel villas, and gentle vine-wrapped slopes as far as the eye can see. Amid this beauty, the Pfälzer live with French-inflected savoir-faire. This amplitude is all there in the wines.  Within a compact 85-km north-south span, 130 villages and seemingly countless vineyards are tightly packed north to…

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