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Trink » Issues » Volume 05, Then & Now

Volume 05, Then & Now

May 2021

Man holding a mug of red wine next to his arm with a tattoo of clinking glasses

Dear Readers,

Over the last year, time has taken on a disconcertingly elastic quality. Now with doors and windows wide open, it’s time to review and reassess what has already come and what still lies ahead. This perspective fueled the volume you now hold in your hands. We found ourselves looking at patterns in the wine world, tides that are reshaping the floor beneath us, even as they carried some things on to shore and sent others out to sea.

In Vol. 05 you’ll find music scholar Ronald Merlino reassessing Beethoven’s life and works in the context of Viennese wine culture. Joyce Lin questions the definition of comfort food and in doing so, finds a wine pairing that gives fresh meaning to an iconic Taiwanese dish. And legendary importer and author Terry Theise reflects on insights gained from a life devoted to German and Austrian wine.

We then shift to an examination of how the past is shaping the future. This kicks off with Steven Sidore’s sharp review of the winners and losers of the freshly inked German Wine Act. Our Swabian-based reporter Katharina Matheis taps into the small-grower renaissance in organic and biodynamic farming in Württemberg. Writing from Berlin, Eva Biringer explores the German capital’s new embrace of alcohol-free life. And Paula Redes Sidore rides the currents of Swiss wine trends with ambassadors Stephen Reinhardt, Marc Almert, and Yvonne Heistermann.

Beyond that, from Vienna, Daniela Dejnega shares three insider picks from Carnuntum that should be on everyone’s lips. From Switzerland, Daniel and Liliana Schönberger take us into the hidden world of Swiss wine and cider grower Markus Ruch, whose iconoclastic takes on both are making waves in the country’s northernmost AOC.

We are, as ever, awed and humbled by the generosity and talent of our contributors and partners, and grateful for the support you, our TRINK community, give us.  We welcome your feedback, interests, and story pitches. Please drop us a line at [email protected].

Happy Reading!

Paula Redes Sidore, Bad Honnef
Valerie Kathawala, New York

Markus Ruch
Switzerland

Markus Ruch

ByDaniel Schönberger May 19, 2021February 11, 2024

Swiss wines remain rare on the international wine scene. But a new generation of talent committed to uncompromising work and meaningfully sustainable viticulture is slowly…...

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​3 Can’t-Miss Wines from Carnuntum​
Austria · Carnuntum

​3 Can’t-Miss Wines from Carnuntum​

ByDaniela Dejnega May 19, 2021February 17, 2024

​The little wine region of Carnuntum sits east of Vienna and south of the Danube. With a mere 900 hectares under vine, it distinguishes itself…...

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12 Questions for Terry Theise
Germany · Austria · Interview

12 Questions for Terry Theise

ByValerie Kathawala May 19, 2021August 1, 2023

Terry Theise. Until quite recently, I would have written “an importer of German and Austrian wine who needs no introduction.”  But over the past year,…...

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Swabian Vibes
Germany · Württemberg

Swabian Vibes

ByKatharina Matheis May 19, 2021February 11, 2024

Those who go on the hunt for modern Württemberg may be surprised by what they find on the journey. In this stretch of southern Germany, many things…...

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Beethoven as Bacchus
Germany · Portrait · Rheingau

Beethoven as Bacchus

ByRon Merlino May 19, 2021November 12, 2023

On the dark morning of March 26, 1827, a heavy snowstorm was falling outside the fogged window panes of Ludwig van Beethoven’s Vienna apartment. Everything…...

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EAT & TRINK | Pfalz Riesling and Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup
Germany · Eat+TRINK · Pfalz

EAT & TRINK | Pfalz Riesling and Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup

ByJoyce Lin May 19, 2021August 1, 2023

If you ask a person from Taiwan to choose the 10 dishes that best represent his or her cuisine, Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup is inevitably…...

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Statue of blind Lady Justice | Revised German Wine Laws 2023
Germany

Winners and Losers of the Revised German Wine Law

BySteven Sidore May 19, 2021May 2, 2024

Roughly once a generation, the German government pops the hood on the country’s wine law for a tune up. 2021 is one such year, with…...

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Swiss Wine Trends
Switzerland

Swiss Wine Trends

ByPaula Redes Sidore May 19, 2021February 27, 2024

​It would be easy to dismiss what happens in the tiny winegrowing country of Switzerland as an inconsequential alpine eddy, an iridescent surge in the…...

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When Vermouth was Spelled Wermut
Germany · Mosel

When Vermouth was Spelled Wermut

ByPhilippe Grandbois May 19, 2021October 17, 2023

It was the first hour of my first shift, and of course, it was a “Manhattan Cocktail.” I pictured the flashcards heavy in my pocket…...

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