Ode to Humble Handkäse
Can you hear the music? Forget onions and vinegar: this Franken co-ferment hits harmonies as only Handkäse can do.
4 Faces of Alto Adige’s Iconic Vorberg
Trink Magazine | A highflying adventure in 4 vintages of Cantina Terlano’s reknowned Vorberg wine. By Paula Redes Sidore
Germany’s Raw Art: the Mettigel
Raw pork is the umlaut answer to the American molded potato salad or ham-and-bananas hollandaise.
German Wines Shine at Restaurant Scheepskameel
“When I started drinking wine, wine was French,” my father told me recently over dinner at Scheepskameel, a Dutch restaurant known for its excellent wine…
Returning Historic Varieties to Germany’s Vineyards
This is a story for the wine romantics among us who dream of bygone varieties, who hunker down to listen to the old stone terraces…
Germany · Austria · Burgenland · Württemberg
Blaufränkisch Bares Its Soul
My first true Blaufränkisch moment came in 2013, at a now-shuttered restaurant in Hamburg. Thirty-six bottles from a swath of Austria’s appellations stood open for…
Germany · Book Review · Mosel
Book Review: “Mosel Wine”
We like to think of Mosel wine as eternally glorious. The river valley’s nearly 2,000-year vinous history, its relics of Roman civilization and tributes to…
Can Spätlese Be Saved?
Not long ago, in my merchant days, I scored a few cases of mature Mosel wines from a grower I didn’t know. It wasn’t much…
When Wines Play the Lang Game in Austria
”In the past, nature held very little meaning for me,” Kremstal winegrower Markus Lang admits when asked to remember the first impressions of his vineyards….
Yaks in Paradise
There’s no “yak crossing” sign in front of Caves du Paradis. Nevertheless, in September cars and trucks on the busy industrial road at the edge…
Crémant is Germany’s Best Kept Secret
German Crémant is one of sparkling wine’s best-kept secrets. The high-quality classification requires strict hand harvesting and whole-bunch pressing to ensure that only the purest…
Delicious Whites under Northern Lights
Liora Levi, high-profile sommelier, television personality, and president of ASI Norwegian Sommelier Association, came late to wine. In its own odd way, that only bolsters…