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Trink » Issues » Volume 04, Roots & Reach

Volume 04, Roots & Reach

April 2021

A straw hat is hung on a grapevine training post in a steep German vineyard

Dear Readers,

With spring emerging, the vines returning with the first bleed of new life and roots digging deep beneath the surface, we are once again reminded that what we see with the naked eye is an infinitely smaller portion of that which binds us to a place and to each other.

The German word Heimat, meaning home or homeland, gives us our theme for this issue: Roots & Reach. The essence of home is connection. It is the base from which we grow and become ourselves.

But home is also complicated. And few wine-growing countries offer the jigsaw complexity of Switzerland: 15,000 hectares, 252 varieties, and a microcosm of traditions. We’re thrilled to have a cast of experts guide us through this dizzying terrain in
Vol. 4.

Dennis Lapuyade journeys into the rare glories of Completer. Chandra Kurt takes us to the heights of Heida. Elizabeth Gabay MW explores the historical shades of Schiller. Valerie Kathawala reports on Dr. José Vouillamoz’s research into the country’s extraordinary grape heritage. Britta Wiegelmann talks with Swiss wine icon Martin Donatsch. And Matt Keller explores Swiss Absinthe.

Looking beyond the Alps, we are also delighted to share the stories of two young couples translating terroir off the beaten path in Germany, Romana Echensperger MW’s investigation of the backstory of biodynamics, David Schildknecht’s deep dive into the origins of Pinot Blanc, Christoph Raffelt’s shimmering study of Scheurebe, and much more.

We’d like to take this opportunity to thank the strategy and design team at Medienagenten, whose faith in our vision for TRINK has been invaluable almost from day one. Their creative talents helped us develop the look and feel of the magazine you are reading right now. We’d also like to point out here that editorial discretion for the selection of topics, nature of coverage, and choice of producers highlighted in this and all issues of TRINK is entirely ours.

As ever, we welcome your feedback. Drop us a line at [email protected]

Happy Reading!

Paula Redes Sidore, Bad Honnef
Valerie Kathawala, New York

Sober Culture
Germany · Tasting Article

Sober Culture

ByEva Biringer May 19, 2021August 1, 2023

What does one drink, when one doesn’t drink?  Isabella Steiner opts for an oat milk latte. On the sun-kissed, hipster corner of Berlin known as…

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A flowering meadow with vineyards in the background and cloud-dotted blue sky
Switzerland

Shimmering Schiller: German-speaking Rosé Gets Its Day

ByElizabeth Gabay April 7, 2021January 29, 2025

Germany offers a surprising array of rose wine styles. Elizabeth Gabay MW explores them here.

Read more or sign in Shimmering Schiller: German-speaking Rosé Gets Its DayContinue

“It’s the Nitrogen, Stupid!”: On Agrochemistry, Biodynamics and Wine
Germany

“It’s the Nitrogen, Stupid!”: On Agrochemistry, Biodynamics and Wine

ByRomana Echensperger April 7, 2021May 2, 2024

Above, a postcard from the German fertilizer industry of the 1920s. At the time, perspectives on soil were changing:  Until then, people had spoken of plant growth…

Read more or sign in “It’s the Nitrogen, Stupid!”: On Agrochemistry, Biodynamics and WineContinue

What’s Driving Swiss Wine?
Switzerland

What’s Driving Swiss Wine?

ByBritta Wiegelmann April 7, 2021August 1, 2023

The Donatschs were never conformists. Starting in the 1970s, Thomas Donatsch of Graubünden turned the Swiss wine landscape on its head with his illegal Chardonnay…

Read more or sign in What’s Driving Swiss Wine?Continue

Lake Kalterersee, Alto Adige seen from above surrounded by vineyards and mountains
Alto Adige · Italy · Tasting Article

The Many Faces of Kalterersee

BySimon Staffler April 7, 2021February 27, 2024

Kalterersee is Alto Adige-Südtirol’s oldest DOC zone, and the most fragrant and floral expression of Vernatsch in the region.

Read more or sign in The Many Faces of KaltererseeContinue

Impressionist painting of woman sitting in a yellow dress and hat with her back to the viewer and a large glass canister marked Absinthe with two glasses to her right on a brown table with a pale green background.
Switzerland

The Swisstory of Absinthe

ByMatt Keller April 7, 2021October 15, 2023

Banned and beloved, feared and revered, one would assume the birth story of absinthe to be as spirited as its character. Yet its quite conventional…

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Photograph of Dr. Jose Vouillamoz dressed in a black blazer, white shirt and white hat stands in front of massive terraced vineyards with trees and cliffs in the far distance
Switzerland

José Vouillamoz on Swiss Wine Grapes

ByValerie Kathawala April 7, 2021October 15, 2023

I’ve read about as widely on Swiss wines as an Anglophone can: the relevant chapters of Jason Wilson’s delicious Godforsaken Grapes. The late Sue Style’s…

Read more or sign in José Vouillamoz on Swiss Wine GrapesContinue

Photograph of a gold cluster of grapes hanging on a thin vine with yellow leaves in the background
Switzerland

Completer: The Answer to a Prayer

ByDennis Lapuyade April 7, 2021October 15, 2023

By traditional measures, my first year of college was a waste. I spent a lot of it playing cards with a gang of liberal theologians…

Read more or sign in Completer: The Answer to a PrayerContinue

3 Can’t-Miss Wines from Vulkanland Steiermark
Styria · Austria

3 Can’t-Miss Wines from Vulkanland Steiermark

ByDaniela Dejnega April 7, 2021November 12, 2023

In Vulkanland Steiermark — “volcanic Styria” — the name says it all. Some 1,500 hectares of vineyard are, for the most part, sited on the…

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In the Sign of Subtlety
Germany · Alto Adige · Austria · Tasting Article

In the Sign of Subtlety

ByDavid Schildknecht April 7, 2021August 1, 2023

Pinot Blanc is neither a distinctive cépage nor a particular grape variety – at least, not from the viewpoint of ampelography or genetics. And what there is of pure Pinot Blanc worldwide is nearly all rendered in German-speaking growing regions where it is typically known as Weissburgunder.

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collage of three winegrowers standing in front of their cellar doors
Germany · Austria · Rheingau · Rheinhessen

What is the Role of “Heimat” in Terroir?

ByNils Kevin Puls April 7, 2021November 12, 2023

For over a year, we’ve been living with a pandemic that has shut down more than just our senses of taste and smell. It has…

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Drink More Scheu!
Germany · Franken · Pfalz · Rheinhessen

Drink More Scheu!

ByChristoph Raffelt April 7, 2021September 10, 2024

If there is an underdog in Germany’s largest winegrowing region, Rheinhessen, it is Scheurebe. Vinified sweet for many years, Scheurebe — pronounced SHOY-ray-beh — largely…

Read more or sign in Drink More Scheu!Continue

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