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Trink » Issues » Volume 06, Forest for the Trees

Volume 06, Forest for the Trees

June 2021

Sun shining through the German forest of Bad Honnef with thick summer foliage.

Over the past year, we’ve grown accustomed to keeping our heads down, focused on placing one foot in front of the other. Now we can look up and shift our focus, from tree back to forest.

Reestablishing equilibrium and redefining the balance between responsibilities to ourselves and to others has led to a long-needed reevaluation of the status quo. We’ve seen it play out in many realms, and wine is finally, thankfully among them.

In this volume, our authors take us on that challenging journey of rediscovery as they confront their own preconceptions. Lauren Johnson comes to terms with an element of racism in a winemaking philosophy she revered. Stuart Pigott warns of the stark reality of heat and drought in a country that, only decades ago, struggled to reliably ripen wine grapes. Ronald Merlino continues his journey along Beethoven’s footpaths to uncover the interplay of music and some quintessential Austrian wines — and the ways in which they amplify our understanding of the composer’s greatest works.

You’ll also find Ellen Wallace’s story of a fascinating Swiss nature park that’s now home to 80 wineries working in symbiosis with nature and human need, as well as Nils Kevin Puls’ fresh look at the timeless appeal of working non-vintage among four top Austrian growers, and expert picks for orange wines from the umlaut zone. From South Tyrol, Simon Staffler reports insights gleaned in the final installment of his three-part investigation of Vernatsch. Liv Fleischhacker explores lessons three Berlin wine retailers learned from their pandemic experiences.

Last but definitely not least, we present a practical and a theoretical introduction to the world of Kabinett trocken. It is a style both loved and little understood.  And who better than David Schildknecht and Jérôme Hainz to elucidate?

As we head into summer, we thank you, our readers, for your remarkable engagement and support for our first six volumes of TRINK. We will now pause publication until autumn, allowing us to refresh our focus, as well as the look, feel, and function of the magazine.

As ever, we welcome your feedback and suggestions. Drop us a line [email protected]

Happy reading!

Paula Redes Sidore, Bad Honnef
Valerie Kathawala, New York

Flood Comes for the Ahr and Its Winemakers
Germany · Ahr · News

Flood Comes for the Ahr and Its Winemakers

ByValerie Kathawala July 19, 2021November 9, 2023

From last Wednesday night into Thursday morning, 148 liters/square meter of rain fell on the Ahr. In a normal July, the region gets about 80…...

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Beethoven as Bacchus, Part II
Germany · Austria · Portrait · Rheingau · Vienna

Beethoven as Bacchus, Part II

ByRon Merlino June 23, 2021November 12, 2023

In the first movement of this piece, we looked at the origins of Ludwig van Beethoven’s interest in wine and the critical role this played in shaping…...

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Berlin-Style Sustainability
Germany

Berlin-Style Sustainability

ByLiv Fleischhacker June 23, 2021August 1, 2023

Over the last decade, Berlin has established itself as a wine city. No small feat, since little quality wine is made within a five-hour driving…...

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Terroir Trocken
Germany · News

Terroir Trocken

ByStuart Pigott June 23, 2021August 1, 2023

The photos that German astronaut Alexander Gerst sent back from the International Space Station during summer 2018 were deeply shocking: Germany was no longer green,…...

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Explore a Swiss Wine Nature Park
Switzerland · Travel

Explore a Swiss Wine Nature Park

ByEllen Wallace June 23, 2021November 11, 2023

A footpath leads from Leuk, a village straddling the Rhone, up to Varen, which is perched on a cliff. The trail is steep and strewn…...

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Get to Know German-Speaking Orange Wines
Germany · Alto Adige · Austria · Switzerland

Get to Know German-Speaking Orange Wines

ByValerie Kathawala June 23, 2021November 12, 2023

Skin-contact white wines may have their revolutionary roots in Georgia, Slovenia, and Friuli,  but the umlaut zone also stakes a strong claim for orange expressions.  Austria…...

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Opinion: Reconciling the Racism of Rudolf Steiner
Germany · Austria · Essay · Switzerland

Opinion: Reconciling the Racism of Rudolf Steiner

ByLauren Johnson-Wünscher June 23, 2021November 14, 2023

It was biodynamic wine that helped me to find my footing in Europe. Yet, as a Black American woman living in Europe, Rudolf Steiner's interests and views present a complicated and troubling legacy.

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The Greatness of Small
Germany · Essay · Literary

The Greatness of Small

ByStephen Bitterolf June 23, 2021August 1, 2023

Truth be told, I relish the fact that the phrase “kabinett trocken” feels like an oxymoron to so many people. For all reasonable drinkers who…...

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Veritable Vernatsch in Alto Adige
Alto Adige

Veritable Vernatsch in Alto Adige

BySimon Staffler June 23, 2021August 1, 2023

For centuries, the grape variety Vernatsch has been both flagship and albatross around the neck of Italy’s northern region of Alto Adige-Südtirol. In this final…...

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EAT & TRINK | Where Silvaner Meets the Sea
Germany · Eat+TRINK · Franken

EAT & TRINK | Where Silvaner Meets the Sea

ByJérôme Hainz June 23, 2021August 1, 2023

Confession time: Which wine and food pairings make your eyes roll faster than a teenager? Champagne and strawberries? Pizza and Lambrusco? Muscadet and oysters?  In…...

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Kabinett Trocken: Oxymoron or Opportunity?
Germany · Mosel · Pfalz · Rheingau

Kabinett Trocken: Oxymoron or Opportunity?

ByDavid Schildknecht June 23, 2021August 1, 2023

It’s an unfortunate paradox: the very climatic conditions that leave us thirsting for lightweight, refreshing and soul-satisfying dry wines render these hard to achieve. Yet,…...

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Miau!? “You must be kidding me!”
Alto Adige · Portrait

Miau!? “You must be kidding me!”

ByDaniel Schönberger June 23, 2021August 1, 2023

Miau! from Martin Gojer and Marion Untersulzner of Weingut Pranzegg in Bozen, South Tyrol could not be more “critter,” but is it also more? By Daniel and Liliana Schönberger

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