Ziereisen Crosses a New Line
A Swiss winery benefits from the touch of the master of Markgräflerland.
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Steiermark: Two Hearts, One Soul
"It’s not about Südsteiermark or Untersteiermark. It’s about wine.”
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Germany · Alto Adige · Italy · Württemberg
What You’re Still Getting Wrong About Trollinger
Trollinger was long decried as a poor excuse of a wine. Increasingly, growers and drinkers beg to differ.
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A New Book Probes the Heart of German Wine
Stephen Bitterolf's new book "Vom Boden: Ten Years of Hocks & Moselles" in review.
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New Views from Südtirol-Alto Adige
A new generation of growers is breathing life into wines of Südtirol-Alto Adige.
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The Butterfly Effect: A Battle Heats Up in the Mosel
The future of the Mosel Apollo butterfly and its habitat of the Mosel terraces are endangered. Can a solution be found that allows both to continue to coexist?
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23 Top Wines of 2023
2023 was a glittering year for German-speaking wines. Discover the standouts that will haunt TRINK's editors for years to come.
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2023 Holiday Gift Guide
TRINK's editors offer a selection of crush-worthy gifts from around the world of umlaut wines.
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But for that Umlaut
The spelling of grape names can be fraught. Iconic viticulturalist Georg Scheu once delivered an address, accompanied by a poem, wittily satirizing those who would replace Sylvaner’s romance “y” with “i.” In 1940, that was risky. Scheu’s country had become a terror state, and those being spoofed weren’t known for their sense of humor. Pfalz vintner Rainer Lingenfelder long labeled his Sylvaner: “Ypsilon – Homage to Georg Scheu and his Rebellion against the ‘i’-dot Bureaucrats [i-Punkt Bürokraten]” — which gained hilarity in translation given the fatuous Nazi policy of enforcing “Germanic” spelling. (Even the “c”s in Cabinet and Bernkasteler Doctor…...
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Dutch Wine Comes of Age
This year, 2023, marks the 50th vintage of commercial winemaking in the Netherlands. The Apostelhoeve winery was the first to take up the gauntlet and plant vines in 1970. Even though the growth of Dutch wine production has accelerated, Apostelhoeve has retained its prominent position. Its wines are allocated to retailers, wholesalers, and restaurants, but only after a personal conversation with owner and winemaker Mathieu Hulst. In the slipstream of Apostelhoeve’s journey to success, a small but expanding — and increasingly interesting — Dutch wine sector is emerging. Apostelhoeve is located just a half-hour walk outside the historical center of…...
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Why Dorli Muhr Bet It All on Blaufränkisch
Austrian wine splashed back into the headlines recently when four of its wineries were chosen by a leading U.S. wine publication for inclusion in their “Top 100” worldwide. Notably, three of the four made their names with red wines. What’s more — in a first for Austria — one is a woman. The woman in question, Dorli Muhr, has been a powerful catalyst for the rise of Austrian wine over the past three decades. But gaining international recognition for her own wines, particularly her strikingly finessed Blaufränkisch from a vineyard she was the first to champion, has been a long…...
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Ingelheim: The Spätburgunder Hotspot You’ve Never Heard of
Ingelheim Rheinhessen is a hotspot for German Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder).
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Seeking an Alt Route to Choucroute
Joyce Lin gives a traditional and beloved Taiwanese dish an umlaut twist and a fresh French pairing.
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Reimagining Pannonia
A map of vanished Pannonian wine culture is beginning to reemerge with regional heroes such as Roland Velich and Tamás Kis leading the way.
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In Alsace
The ancient injunction to keep your friends close and your enemies closer is all very well, but in Alsace it can be hard to tell the two apart. Control of the region has swung between Germany and France like a pendulum, and the Protestantism of the one and Catholicism of the other has caused generations of religious dissidents to flee west and east respectively, to halt by the great Vosges mountains and settle on the swathe of land beside the Rhine. Which, it turned out, might have been a problematic spot in political terms, but was an ideal place to…...
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Czech Wine Steps Out of the Shadows
With Milan Nestarec now a household name among natural wine drinkers, wine bar owners Standa Soukup and Bogdan Trojak of Prague, the Czech capital could justifiably pat themselves on the back and consider their job done. In their quest to champion Czech wine, they witnessed a humble, young winemaker rise to the top of the international natural wine scene. While the Czech wine boom can’t be attributed to any one person or establishment, there’s no denying the impact their establishment Veltlin has had on the buzz. Will these two help launch more meteoric successes? And can a region that was…...
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German Lessons in the Finger Lakes
Slopes tilting toward shimmering water; a long, cool growing season; and shallow slate soil — to a connoisseur of German wines, these features immediately evoke the storied Mosel region. Yet they also describe a much younger wine-growing area: New York State’s Finger Lakes, or FLX. Long dismissed as a producer of tourist-friendly sweet wines made from non-vinifera grapes, the Finger Lakes now give life to vintages that express grape and terroir with nuance and sophistication. These include wines created by German-born winemakers, such as Johannes Reinhardt at Kemmeter Wines and Peter Weis at Weis Vineyards, as well as those who trained…...
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Riesling Looks East
Riesling is Poland's second most popular grape. Its lure is proving irresistible not only in Zielona Góra and Lower Silesia but also the cooler Lublin region in eastern Poland.
